By the twentieth century, this new version came to be called Manhattan clam chowder (some historians say that it was also called Coney Island clam chowder). It is believed that distainful New Englanders named the red-stained chowder after Manhattan because they believed New Yorkers were the only ones crazy enough to add tomato to a pristine white chowder.
Serves 4
INGREDIENTS:
5- 3/4 cups bottled clam juice
5 pounds littleneck clams
1/4 cup flour
3 tablespoons canola oil
3 shallots, sliced (1/4 inch)
2 ribs diced (1/4 inch) celery
2 heads garlic, halved
1 tomato, quartered
1 bunch parsley
1/4 cup tomato paste
1 cup white wine
2 tablespoons butter
3 sprigs thyme
Lemon juice
COOKING PROCEDURE:
1) In a medium saucepan over high heat, reduce the clam juice to 2 cups. Thoroughly scrub and rinse the clams under cold running water.
2) In a large pot, heat the oil over high heat. Add the shallots, celery, garlic, tomato, parsley, and tomato paste and stir constantly for 30 seconds.
3) Add the clams and stir for 30 seconds.
4) Add the wine, cover, and continue cooking over high heat until most of the clams have opened, 1- 1/2 to 2 minutes.
5) Transfer to a bowl and cool over an ice bath; discard any unopened clams. Reserve about 2 cups of cooking liquid. Remove all but 8 clams from the shells and cut away and discard the mantles, keeping only the bellies.
6) In a medium saucepan, combine the reduced clam juice with the clam cooking liquid and bring to a simmer. Remove from the heat and stir in the butter until emulsified.
7) Add the thyme sprigs, season with lemon juice to taste, and steep for 10 minutes.
8) Remove and discard the thyme sprigs.
INGREDIENTS:
1/4 cup Chicken Stock (refer to recipe below)
2 tablespoons diced (1/8 inch) shallot
1 cup fresh corn kernels
1/4 cup diced (1/4 inch) celery
Clams, reserved from making Clam Chowder Sauce
Confit Cherry Tomatoes (refer to recipe below)
1/4 cup green celery leaves
12 cherry tomatoes, halved
2 tablespoons cold butter
Salt
COOKING PROCEDURE:
1. In a medium sauté pan, bring the chicken stock to a simmer over medium-low heat.
2. Add the shallot and simmer until tender, about 2 minutes.
3. Add the corn kernels and simmer until cooked, 1- 1/2 to 2 minutes.
4. Add the celery and cook until tender, 2 to 3 minutes.
5. Add the clams, confit cherry tomatoes, and celery leaves. Continue simmering until the celery leaves have wilted and the cherry tomatoes and clams are warm.
6. Add the halved cherry tomatoes and the butter. Swirl the pan to melt the butter into the ragout and season with salt to taste.
To Finish
Celery leaves
Olive oil
7. Divide the clam chowder sauce among 4 bowls, reserving 1/4 cup for finishing.
8. Divide the clam ragout among the bowls.
9. Aerate the reserved clam chowder sauce with a hand blender and spoon the foam on top of each dish.
10. Garnish with celery leaves and 2 clams in their shells and finish with olive oil.
Makes 4 quarts
INGREDIENTS:
10 pounds chicken backs and necks
15 pounds ice cubes
1 cup diced leek, white part only
1/2 cup diced celery
1/2 cup diced celery root
1/2 cup sliced shallot
1/2 cup diced fennel
5 white peppercorns
1 bay leaf
1 sprig thyme
COOKING PROCEDURE:
1) Rinse the chicken backs and necks well under running water for 5 minutes.
2) Place the backs and necks in a 20-quart stockpot, top with the ice, and bring to a simmer over medium heat.
3) Simmer for 15 to 20 minutes, skimming off all of the impurities and fats that rise to the top.
4) After the stock is skimmed, add the leek, celery, celery root, shallot, and fennel. Make a sachet by wrapping the peppercorns, bay leaf, and thyme in cheesecloth.
5) Add the sachet to the stock.
6) Simmer, uncovered, for 3 hours, skimming every 30 minutes.
7) Strain through a chinois and chill over an ice bath.
8) Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week or freeze in ice cube trays for up to 1 month.
Makes 12
INGREDIENTS:
12 cherry tomatoes
1 tablespoon olive oil
1/8 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon sugar
COOKING PROCEDURE:
1. Preheat the oven to 200°F.
2. Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil.
3. Using a paring knife, mark a shallow X on the bottom of each tomato. Add to the boiling water for 3 to 4 seconds. Immediately transfer to an ice bath and, once cool, remove the skins with a paring knife, being careful not to cut into the flesh.
4. Toss the peeled tomatoes in the olive oil, salt, and sugar.
5. Place on a rimmed baking sheet lined with parchment paper and bake for 1- 1/2 hours, until the tomatoes are slightly shriveled and about one-quarter of their original size.
6. Cool to room temperature and refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 3 days.
Watch related cooking video:
REFERENCE:
Marcus Wareing said his favorite cookbook is one by Chef Daniel Humm at Eleven Madison Park in New York City.
Daniel Humm (Author), Will Guidara (Author), Francesco Tonelli (Photographer). 2013. I Love New York: Ingredients and Recipes. Ten Speed Press. ISBN-13: 978-1607744405
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